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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.